GARMENT CUTTER 




Class_1 ■ 5 2- S 

Book__ 

Copyright N°_ 


COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 












The 


A merican 


JTur Qar ment g utter 


A Complete, Practical, Up-to-date Treatise 

on the Cutting of 

Fur Garments of All Hinds 


According to the Latest and Most Approved Method 


Published by 

American Fashion Company 

* New York, London, Paris, Berlin 












t 


LIBRARY Of CONGRESS 
Two Copies Received 

APR 6 I9U5 

CMyrigiu tmry 

UJbJ 6 

CU<Ss * XXc. Nw 

/* 3 V J?<?. 

COPY B. 


International Copyright 1905 


Entered According to Act of Congress in the Year 1905 

BY 

GUSTAV ENGELMANN 

In the Office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington, D. C. 
Entered at Stationers' Hall, London, 1905 


All Rights Reserved 
Reproduction Interdite 
Vervielfaeltigung Untersagt 









INTRODUCTION 

-to ^ 

HEN William Paul Ahnelt first issued his American Album of Fur 
Novelties in 1893, showing novelties and changes in Fur garments, 
a cry went up from the few furriers then in business of ‘ ‘Are you 
going to make dressmakers of us ? ” Opposition in some quarters 
was developed, but Ahnelt, the father of fur fashions, undismayed, 
went serenely on his way. He saw the need of the fur trade was that some one 
should take the lead in designing fur garments that could be recognized as up- 
to-date. Prior to that time a fur sacque was a “sack” indeed, to be passed 
along for several generations till thoroughly worn out. But with the advent of 
fur fashions all this was changed. “ Miladi’s ” furs must be up-to-date in 
style, fit and finish. This caused an immense increase in the demand for com¬ 
petent furriers, new shops were opened, and altogether what was virtually a new 
industry was created, till today the up-to-date furrier is as necessary to the 
fashionable woman as either dressmaker or tailor. 

Speaking of a well-dressed woman, Rene Bach said; “Good clothes are an 
expression of morality.” As applied to the human race it is not without reason 
that a well-dressed person is treated with greater respect, even by strangers, on 
account of her attire, which should be, so to speak, the outward and visible sign 
of an inward and spiritual grace. The pleasure of being perfectly gowned has 
been said to surpass the satisfaction derivable from the consolations of religion 
and scarce anybody will deny that a more substantial joy is to be obtained from 
a sum of money invested in a handsome and becoming fur garment than from 
an equal amount of value in any other form whatsoever. 

This being the case, what a field for the artist furrier who can produce a 








garment which will fit ; whose lines will be perfectly graceful. No matter how 
expensive the skins, the hand of the maker is the all-important factor in pro¬ 
ducing the garment which will satisfy the patron. 

There is no limit to the field or reward open to the perfect artiste; one 
who will produce the proper effect every time. 

So it is to every furrier’s interest to obtain the very best instruction possible. 

Of the making of books, especially instruction books, there seems to be no 
end, at prices ranging from a bagatelle for a burlesque, to the price charged for 
a truly practical successful method. A man may be a first-class furrier 
himself yet be unable to impart his knowledge to others. Some treatises take 
the theoretical part of fur garment making and exhaust their field thoroughly, 
yet, after digesting their instruction, the pupil finds he has mastered what— 

THEORY ONLY. 

The present volume, which is the most thorough and complete ever pub¬ 
lished, is the result of a lifetime of practice. 

Nor is it simply practice only but it is a practical exposition of theory 
and practice put on paper in such a way that it can be understood even by 
those of limited education. It contains everything pertaining to the cutting and 
making up of fur garments for all sizes and shapes, with illustrations fully 
explaining the workings of the system which is simplicity itself and absolutely 
free from complex theories. The drafts and diagrams are of the most satisfac¬ 
tory, practical and concise kind,, the lines being correct in every detail. 
T he American Fur Garment Cutter is offered to the fraternity of furriers 
with the fullest belief that it is perfect in all of its many details by 

The Author, 


Gustav Engelmann. 





DEDICATION 


the Furriers throughout the world, whose aim is 
to produce perfect fitting Fur Garments of the 
latest fashion for clothing the human form divine. 


The Author. 












Measurements 











THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


9 


PROPORTIONAL MEASUREMENTS 
FOR WOMEN 


SIZES 

32 

34 

36 

38 

40 

42 

44 

46 

48 

50 

BUST 

32 

34 

S 6 

38 

40 

42 

44 

46 

48 

50 

WAIST 

23 

23I 

24I 

26 

27I 

29 

3i 

33l 

36 

38 

HIP 

33 

40 

42 

44' 

46 

48 

50 

52 

55 

58 

NECK 

131 

Hi 

Hi 3 

i5l 

15! 

16! 

17 

17* 

181 

19 

ACROSS CHEST 

135 

14 

Hi 

15 

15! 

16 

16I 

17 

17! 

18 

LENGTH OF 
WAIST FRONT 

17 

1 7l 

18 

18 

18 

17I 

17! 

17 

161 

161 

INSIDE SLEEVE 

17-5 

•7! 

18 

18I 

18I 

181 

181 

181 

18! 

>81 

1-2 

SHOULDER HEIGHT 

FRONT 

84-64 

9-7 

9l-7l 

9l-7l 

94“7i 

10-8 

10I-8I 

iol-81 

iol-82 

1 [-9 

1-2 

Shoulderheight 

BACK 

8-5I 

81-58 

81-6 

81-61 

81-61 

8S-6J 

84-6I 

81-61 

9-61 

91' 61 

NECK HEIGHT 
AND TO WAIST 

64-15 

7“ 1 5! 

7l-i5l 

7l-i5* 

7l-i6 

7l-l6l 

7l- l6 l 

7l-i61 

7\~ 16I 

7! 165 

ACROSS BACK 

13 

i3l 

H 

Hi 

15 

15! 

16 

161 

17 

i7l 

UNDER ARM 

8! 

9 

9 

9 

9 

8? 

81 

81 

81 

81 

CUFF 

81 

81 

9 

9l 

9l 

9! 

9'1 

10 

iol 

iol 


Diagram i. 






































































































































10 


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



Diagram 2. 


















































































































THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 11 


6 FEET 


PROPORTIONAL LENGTHS 

From 4 Feet 4in. to 6 Feet. 


4.FT.4.IN 



Diagram 3. 














































12 


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


DIRECTIONS FOR TAKING MEASURES 

In taking a customer’s measure it is absolutely essential that she be treated 

IN SUCH A MANNER THAT SHE FEEL PERFECTLY AT EASE IN EVERY WAY, hence will aSSllllie her 

natural attitude. Act quickly but quietly; don’t get flustered yourself; converse naturally 
with her, to take her mind from the fact that she is being measured, otherwise she will in¬ 
evitably and unconsciously "pose,” which will result in a misfit, meaning trouble, alterations, 
loss of prestige, etc. 

Re very careful in measuring to place the tape close to the body, neither too tight nor 
too loose, and see to it that it is not crooked. The success of the garment depends greatly 
on the balance, which the measurement alone can ascertain. It is therefore imperative that 
the body of your customer be in its natural pose when the measure is taken. We must 
again impress upon you the necessity of so arranging matters that you will keep her body 
in its proper pose. It is a very common occurrence that a person whose natural attitude is 
somewhat stooping will erect herself during the operation of measuring, which should be 
avoided. Take special notice of the foregoing instructions. 

TAKING THE MEASURE. 

Diagram 4, No. 1; Diagram 4, No. 2. 

First —Mark shoulder seam with two pins, one at 8, the other at 9. This is very 
important, and great care should be taken not to get this particular seam too far front or 
back. 

Second— Place tape high up under arm as line 1 shows, and mark with pins for shoul¬ 
der height measure at 22 and 15 on front and 24—25 on back, directly under shoulder pins 
previously placed. 

Bust Measure —Move tape down to fullest part of bust (point 2) and take measure. 

Waist Measure —Draw tape tight around waist and take measure. 

Hip Measure —Move tape down four inches below waist to point 4, and measure 
fairly tight. Four inches lower is a second hip measure, point 5. 

Neck Measure —Measure around neck with ease, not too tight nor yet too loose. 

Across Chest—21—20. From armscye to armscye across chest. 

Neck Front to Waist—6—2—3. From lowest point of neck measure to fullest part 
of bust to waist front. 

Shoulder Height Front —8—22 and 9 — 15. Measure from pins on shoulder to 

pins placed on bust. 

Shoulder Height Back — 8—24 and 9 — 25. Measure from pins on shoulder to pins 
placed on back. 

Length Back to Waist — 6 — 1 — 3. From collarbone to center of back to waist. 

Across Back— 23—11. From armscye to armscye across back. 

Under Arm —Place the end of tape a little back of directly under the arm; then 
take the measure to bottom of belt. Be very careful to get this measure long enough. 

Outside Sleeve — 7—11—12—13. From center of back to armscye, elbow and wrist. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


13 



Diagram 4, No. 1. 


Diagram 4 , No. 2 . 





























14 


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


JACKET LESSON I 

Diagram 5. 


MEASURES. 


Bust, 

38 

inches 

Across Back, 14 

inches 

Waist, 

26 

inches 

Underarm, 9 

inches 

Hip, 

44 

inches 

Shoulder Heights Front, 94— y\ 

inches 

Across Chest, 

T 5 

inches 

Shoulder Heights Back, 85—6 

inches 

Neck, 

164 

inches 

Length Back to Waist, —154 

inches 


INSTRUCTIONS. 

1. Draw line A—B. 

Measure from A to C 7} inches, and A to E, 154 inches, length in hack to waist. 

E to F is 4 inches, first hip. 

F to B is 4 inches, second hip. 

Square C—E—F anti B on line A—B. 

2. The measure from C to D is 4 of bust measure, 38 inches, plus i 4 inches, namely, 

204 inches. This i 4 inches which is allowed on 4 of bust measure is lost as follows: 
1 inch in cutting out pattern, and 4 inch for interlining. 

D to G is 54 inches, always 4 of the distance between C and D, in this instance 204 
inches. 

G to H is 4-^ inches, or 4 the distance between C and D. plus i 4 inches. 

C to Y is 24 inches, which distance changes 4 inch more or less for respective sizes; C 
to I is /4 inches, which is 4 inch more than one-half across hack measure. 

Square D—H up and down; G—I—Y up on line C—D. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


15 



Diagram 5. 


















1 G 


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


JACKET LESSON II 

Diagram 6. 

MEASURES. 


Bust, 

38 

inches 

Across Back, 

14 inches 

W aist, 

26 

inches 

Underarm, 

9 inches 

Hips, 

44 

inches 

Shoulder Heights Front, 

9I—inches 

Across Chest, 

15 

inches 

Shoulder Heights Back, 

8^—6 inches 

Neck, 

1 64 

inches 

Length Back to Waist, 

7 \— 1 inches 


INSTRUCTIONS. 

1. C to P is 6 inches, second shoulder height back. 

Y to O is 8J inches, first shoulder height hack. 

Square A and P across on line A—B. 

In squaring P across, point R is found crossing line I. R to S is | inch. 

Draft neck back A—O and draw shoulder hack O—S. 

H to 3 is y\ inches, second shoulder height in front; square point 3 on line H—3. 

G to X is 9} inches, first shoulder height in front. 

Square point X ^ inch toward front and make dot. 

X to 1 is 2 inches, which point squared will make neck curve front. Z to 2 is 7^ 
inches, across chest measure. 

2. Measure back shoulder O—S and make front shoulder the same length, starting from 

the dot placed f inch outside of X and continue to get length on line 3. 

D to O is I inch allowance for breathing. 

3. Draft armscve starting at S, being very careful not to go inside of line I—R. Bring 

curve down to H, being careful not to go below bust line, draft through 2 to line 3. 
It is very important to follow the draft of armscye very carefully and get the shape as 
near as possible as diagram shows, as nothing can be added to an armscye that is 
too large, while a small armscye can easily be widened. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


17 



Diagram 6. 
























18 


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


JACKET LESSON III 

Diagram 7. 

MEASURES. 


Bust, 

38 

inches 

Across Back, 

14 

inches 

Waist, 

26 

inches 

Underarm, 

9 

inches 

Hips, 

44 

inches 

Shoulder Heights Front, 

9 \ — 7 i 

inches 

Across Chest, 

15 

inches 

Shoulder Heights Back, 

8i—6 

inches 

Neck, 

16J 

inches 

Length Back to Waist, 

7 i— 15J 

inches 


INSTRUCTIONS. 

1. Waist: From E to J is if inches. 

J to K is if inches. 

K to L is 1 inch. 

A rule for J and K. J and K in this case is if inches and varies f inch according to 
size; for instance, if inches for 40 bust measure and if inches for 36 bust measure. 
This rule is applied in all cases where back is tight, with 2 gores. 

2. In order to get the right proportions for gores, the following rule is used: 

Waist measure is 26 inches, J of same is 6f inches, which must be divided into two 
equal gores, and a back. Back J—K is 1J inches, leaving 5J inches to be divided 
into two equal gores, of 2§ inches each. The distance from L to 7 is 7J inches, or 2 
inches more than desired; therefore divide 2 inches into two equal parts of 1 inch each, 
and lose this between the gores. Now measure L to 4, 2% inches; 4 to 5, 1 inch; 5 to 
6, 2f inches; and 1 inch from 6 to 7. This rule is to be used on all sizes. 

3. Hip: Find center of K—L; 4—5 and square down. Find center of 6—7 and square 

up and down; by squaring up, point 28 is found. F to V is if inches and draw back 
line V—J to A. 

10 and 15 is J inch from line between L—K; 11 and 12; 13 and 14 are J inch from center 
line. 

4. Draft back from 10 through K to T. T is 2f inches below R. 

Back Gore: From 15 through L touching back at bust to T; from 12 through 4 to 29. 
which is 2\ inches from T. 

Side Gore: From 11 through 5 to 29; from 14 through 6 to 28. 

Front: From 13 through 7 to 28. 

Continue lines down from V—15—10—11—12—13—14 to any desired length. 

5. To find front line, point 18, hip must be measured, starting from V to 10, 15 to 12, 11 

to 14, 13 to where one-half hip measure comes to plus if inches, giving point 18. 

6. To obtain neck measure: Measure from A to O and from line X on neck front to 

where the neck measure comes to, in this case, point 27. 

Shape front line from 18 through O to 27. Place dart directly under center of bust line 
D—H parallel with front line 27—18, 3f inches below, and take out between 8—9, 1 
inch and 16 and t 7 f inch and shape as shown. 





THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


19 



Diagram 7. 





































20 


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


JACKET LESSON IV 

Diagram 8. 


MEASURES. 


Bust, 

38 inches 

Across Back, 

14 inches 

Waist, 

26 inches 

Underarm, 

9 inches 

Hips, 

44 inches 

Shoulder Heights Front, 

9^—inches 

Across Chest, 

15 inches 

Shoulder Heights Back, 

81—6 inches 

Neck, 

16J inches 

Length Back to Waist, 

—I5i inches 


INSTRUCTIONS. 

i. To make garment double breasted allow 2 inches on front line from Q and 18 and draw 
* 

line. Go back for buttons the same distance and mark same, as diagram shows. 

To obtain collar and lapel, measure one inch from deepest point of neck line making 
point 23, and draw line from point 26, upward to point 23. Go in J inch from shoul¬ 
der point front and draft line from neck curve through just given point. The distance 
from line X is neck curve back A—O. giving point 21. Placing square on line 26 
—23 draw line from 21 through 24 to 25, which point is 1^ inches from 24. Draft un¬ 
der collar from 25 through point 30 an 1 shape lapel and collar as diagram shows. Al¬ 
low \ of an inch from point 21 for the spring of collar in back. 

Now break line 26—23 by turning paper under and trace lines of lapel out to front of 
jacket, giving shape as shown. Now place a separate paper under collar and trace 
out according to drawing. 




THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


21 



Diagram 8. 













































22 


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


JACKET IN LOOSE FRONT AND TIGHT BACK 

Diagram 9. 


MEASURES. 


Bust, 

38 inches 

Across Back, 

14 

inches 

Waist, 

26 inches 

Underarm, 

9 

inches 

Hips, 

44 inches 

Shoulder Height Front, 

9 i —7 4 

inches 

Across Chest, 

15 inches 

Shoulder Height Back, 

8|—6 

inches 

Neck, 

16^ inches 

Length Back to Waist, 

7 i~ i 5 i 

inches 


INSTRUCTIONS. 

1. At neck curve front a V is taken out at point 30 about ^ inch, and 5 inches deep, to 

give proper fullness over bust. As will be noticed in Lesson 3, instructions are with 
one dart in front, and in this lesson, two darts are shown. It is perfectly safe to make 
garment either way, but long experience teaches that a garment with two darts gives 
better satisfaction and takes all the fullness away from the front of the coat when but¬ 
toned up. 

2. Darts: Between 8 and 9 is 1 inch, and between 56 and 22 is ^ inch. Points W and U 

are 2\ and 3 inches from bust line D—H respectively. Start to shape darts 6 inches 
below waist line as diagram shows, from points 54 and 55. 

3. To make garment double breasted allow 3 inches on front line and go back 2\ inches 

for button stand. Shape front as desired or as diagram shows. Take out 1 inch be¬ 
tween 27 and 31. 

A Storm Collar is to go on this jacket, and is described on page 116, Diagram 58. 




THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



Diagram 9. 














































THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


21 


JACKET AND STORM COLLAR IN ONE 

Diagram io. 


MEASURES. 


Bust, 

38 inches 

Across Back, 

14 inches 

Waist, 

26 inches 

Underarm, 

9 inches 

Hips, 

44 inches 

Shoulder Height Front, 

9i—7J inches 

Across Chest, 

15 inches 

Shoulder Height Back, 

8J—6 inches 

Neck, 

16J inches 

Length Back to Waist, 

7 4— t 52 inches 


INSTRUCTIONS. 

\ , 

1. This Jacket is exactly the same as described in Lesson No. 4, with the exception of hav¬ 

ing one dart only and collar being cut with garment. 

2. Collar: From A to 32 is 4J inches and square to point 25, 3J inches. O to 24 is 5J 

inches; connect A with 25, 25 with 24, and O with 24, as diagram shows. 

X to 30 is 5J inches, and square to 21, f inch. Now connect 27 with 21, and X with 

/ 

21, shaping as diagram shows. Continue the V between 22 and 23 straight up as 
shown, giving the spring of collar. This completes the collar. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


25 


21 



Diagram io. 









































26 


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


JACKET WITH THREE GORES 
For Corpulent Figure 

Diagram ii. 


MEASURES. 


Bust, 

44 

inches 

Across Back, 


inches 

Waist, 

32 

inches 

Underarm, 

8i 

inches 

Hips, 

50 

inches 

Shoulder Heights Front, 

10J—8J 

inches 

Across Chest, 

16 

inches 

Shoulder Heights Back, 

8f —64 

inches 

Neck, 

U 

inches 

Length Back to Waist, 

7 i— 16J 

inches 


INSTRUCTIONS. 

1. Follow the same rule as in Lessons I and II for box only, using 44 bust proportions. 

2. Starting at waist line E, measure to J 1^ inches and draw a straight line up to A. 

From J to Iv is 2 inches. This point varies the same as described in paragraph 1, Les¬ 
son 3. K to L is 1 inch. 

In order to get the same proportion for gores as in other lessons, use the same rule as 
given in paragraph 2, Lesson 3, only using 3 proportions instead of 2, making L to 4 
2 inches; 4 to 5, 1 inch; 5 to 6, 2 inches; 6 to 7, 1 inch; 7 to 30, 2 inches and f of an 
inch between 30 and 31. 

For the balance of Jacket use exactly the same details as described in Lesson No. 4, 
with the exception of the collar, which in this case is a shawl collar. 

For this collar, same description applies as for notch collar described in Lesson No. 4, 
leaving out the notch and making lapel and collar in one, as diagram shows. 

Now break line 26—23 by turning paper under, and trace lines of lapel out to front of 
jacket, giving the shape as shown. 

Now.place a separate piece of paper under collar and trace out according to drawing. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


.27 



Diagram ii. 



































































28 


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


SLEEVE DIAGRAM CORRESPONDING WITH 

38 BUST FIGURE 

Diagram 12. 

t 

MEASURES. 

Bust, 38 inches Length to Wrist, 29^ inches 

Across Back, 14 inches To Elbow, 19J inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

1. Draw a line A—B; A to M is 7 inches, \ width of back. A to L is 19! inches—elbow. 

A to B is 29^ inches—length of sleeve. 

M to S is 9! inches, £ of bust measure. Square point S down on M—S. 

M—D is £ of bust measure less 1 inch, or 3^ inches. Square D—L and B on line A—B. 
This completes box for sleeve. 

2. M to I is 1 inch. L to C is J inch; Q to P is ^ inch; H to G is 1 inch; H to K is qf 

inches; K to J is ^ inch. Draw a line from G through J. Mark off from G to V, 4 
inches. From G to E is 6 inches. 

3. T to R is 2 inches; R to U is 5 inches, ^ inch more than ^ of bust. Divide line S—M in 

half for point N. N to O is 2\ inches. Draft line G—R—Q—N—V—U—N to Q, 
finishing undersleeve. 

Draft line G—R—P—E—C—I—O—P, finishing diagram. 




THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



Diagram 12. 





















30 


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


BISHOP SLEEVE CORRESPONDING WITH 
36 BUST FIGURE 

Diagram 13. 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

1. Draw a line A—B. A to C is 4^ inches.. of bust. C to D is 9 inches, | of bust. D to 

B is 9 inches, ^ of bust. A to E is £ bust measure, 18 inches less 2 inches or 16 inches; 
square points A—C—D and B and square down on E. This completes box. 

2. Divide A—E into half and square down, making line N—M. G to P is i-J inches; O to 

D is 1^ inches; B to L is f inch; H to K is f inch. Point M is 4 inches below line 
B—H. Point N is 1 inch above A—E. 

3. Now connect L—O—C—N—F—P—K—M to L completing bishop sleeve. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


31 



Diagram 13. 






















32 


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


TIGHT FITTING JACKET 

Diagram 14. 


MEASURES. 


Bust, 

38 

inches 

Across Back, 

14 

inches 

Waist, 

26 

inches 

Underarm, 

9 

inches 

Hips, 

44 

inches 

. Shoulder Heights Front, 

9i—7? 

inches 

Across Chest, 

15 

inches 

Shoulder Heights Back, 

81—6 

inches 

Neck, 

16J 

inches 

Length Back to Waist, 

7 h- 

inches 


INSTRUCTIONS. 

1. Follow instructions in Lessons 1—2—3 to obtain all points except front. 

2. Waist: Commence measuring at J to K, L to 4, 5 to 6 and from 7 to where waist meas¬ 

ure comes to 13 inches. In this case 56 is the point; from 56 always allow ^ inch 
more for tight fitting garments; from front line go out 1 inch to 23. What is left be¬ 
tween 23 and 56, less the half inch allowed, must be taken out in 2 darts; as there are 

« 

3 inches, take out 1J inches each. 

Start at point 23 and measure to point 22, inches; from 22 to 56 is 1^ inches, which is 
t>- of the 3 inches; 56 to 9 is 1 inch; 9 to 8 is i4 inches, the other half of 3 inches. 

3. Hip: Commence measuring at V to 10, 15 to 12, 11 to 14, and 13 to where hip meas¬ 

ure comes to 22 inches plus'ij inches 23^ inches, the 1^ inches allowed being taken 
out in darts; this gives point 18. 

4. Now shape front line from 18 through 23, Q to 27, and from 18 down to 53. 

5. Make point W about 2.\ inches from breast line, and 5 inches from front line 27—53; 

and U about 3 inches from breast line D—H and 3 inches from front line. 

6. Draw a line through center of 56—22 and 8-—9 from U—W to about 6 inches below 

waist line points 54—55 and start to shape darts as diagram shows. 

7. To make this jacket double-breasted, measure 1 inch from 23 to 33, and make opposite 

side line 53—31 correspond with front line 53—27. From 33 to 32 is inches, 18 
to 34 is 2\ inches; now draft line from 34 through 32 to 30, any desired shape. 




THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


33 



Diagram 14. 
























































34 


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


TIGHT FITTING JACKET WITH SEPARATE SKIRT 




Diagram 

15- 





MEASURES. 



Bust, 

38 

inches 

Across Back, 

14 

inches 

Waist, 

26 

inches 

Underarm, 

Q 

inches 

Hips, 

44 

inches 

Shoulder Heights Front, 

9 J— 7 i 

inches 

Across Chest, 

15 

inches 

Shoulder Heights Back, 

8J—6 

inches 

Neck, 

16J 

inches 

Length Back to Waist, 

7 i—Ui 

inches 


INSTRUCTIONS. 

For making jacket, use exactly the same rules and descriptions used in tight fitting 
jacket. Diagram in this instance shows a separate lapel and is made exactly like the tight 
fitting jacket, with the exception of the shape of collar and lapel. Also notice that jacket is 
cut through from back gore, point L to front of garment point 40, to which separate skirt is 
fastened. 

Skirt: Square points 33—32 from 23. 23 to 33 is \ of bust measure, 9J inches; 23 to 

32 is ^ of bust measure, plus 1 inch, 5J inches. From 33 to 10, and from 32 to 13 is 4 inches 
all around waist, making hip measure. 231031 is 3 inches. Draft waist line from 33 
through 31 to 32, which is ^ of waist measure, less back, J—K. 

10 to 19 is J inch; draw line down through 19 from 33; make skirt 8 inches deep and 8 
inches all around from waist line. Add plaits on back to correspond with jacket, which com¬ 
pletes diagram. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


35 


25 



Diagram 15 












































36 


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


LOOSE FRONT JACKET WITH TIGHT FITTING VEST 

Diagram 16. 


MEASURES. 


Bust, 

38 inches 

Across Back, 

14 

inches 

Waist, 

26 inches 

Underarm, 

9 

inches 

Hips, 

44 inches 

Shoulder Heights Front, 

9 i— 7 F 

inches 

Across Chest, 

15 inches 

Shoulder Heights Back, 

8J—6 

inches 

Neck, 

i 64 inches 

Length Back to Waist, 

7 f— i Si 

inches 


INSTRUCTIONS. 

i. Follow tight fitting jacket for back, side gores, back gores, and front, then shape gores 
and back to any desired length as diagram shows. 

Using the center front of the tight fitting jacket, shape vest as diagram shows, about 2 
inches below waist line. The vest in this diagram is the shaded portion of drawing. 

3. Measure for shawl collar 1 inch from deepest point at neck line 23, and draw straight 
line from bottom of front point 53 through point 40. Now draft line from neck curve 
front line X to 21 upward and make this distance the same length as neck curve back 
A—O, giving point 21. Placing square on line 53—23, draw a line from 21 through 
point 24 to 25. Draft shawl, starting at point 53 to top of collar (neck back) and 
, draft under collar from point 25, touching shawl as diagram shows. 

Break line 24—53 by turning paper under and trace shawl toward front as diagram 
shows. Place separate piece of paper under the under collar and trace out according 
to diagram. The vest must be traced out the same way by laying paper under front. 




THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


37 



Diagram 16. 












































38 


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


TIGHT FITTING VEST 

Diagram 17. 


MEASURES. 


Bust, 

38 

inches 

Across Back, 


14 

inches 

Waist, 

26 

inches 

Underarm, 


9 

inches 

Hips, 

44 

inches 

Shoulder Heights Front, 

9 h 

- 7 i 

inches 

Across Chest, 

15 

inches 

Shoulder Heights Back, 

84- 

-6 

inches 

Neck, 

161 

inches 

Length Back to Waist, 

7 4— 

-i 5 i 

inches 


INSTRUCTIONS. 

1. Use Lesson No. 1 for box. 

A to C is inches, length in back- P to C is 6 inches, second shoulder height back; 
square A and P on line A—F; P to R is 7 inches, 1 width of back. S is about 1 
inch from R; A to N is 2\ inches, which distance changes; C to Y is 2\ inches, this 
distance changes | inch more or less for respective sizes; Y to O is inches, first 
shoulder height back. 

H to 3 is inches, second shoulder height front; G to X is 9! inches, first shoulder 
height front; 1 is 2 inches from X; this varies according to measure, allowing -J inch 
more for larger sizes and 1 inch less for smaller sizes. E to J is 1 inch; connect J with 
A, and shape slightly as shown. 

Draft line A—O. Connect O with S. 3 to line X is same distance as O—S. 

Draft line X—27. 

Armscye for vest is always 1 inch larger all around than the regular jacket. The dotted 
line shows the jacket and the heavy line all around it the vest armscye. 

3. J to K is 3f inches; K to L is inches; Lto 4 is 2§ inches; 4 to 5 is 1^ inches; now draft 

gore in back as shown. 

Front and darts are same as tight fitting jacket. 

4. Allow for button stand % inch. 

Draft bottom to any shape desired. From 27 on neck diagram shows a standing collar. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


39 



Diagram 17. 





















































40 


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


LOOSE BACK TIGHT FRONT VEST LS 


Diagram 18. 


MEASURES. 


Bust, 

38 inches 

Across Back, 

14 inches 

Waist, 

26 inches 

Underarm, 

9 inches 

Hips, 

44 inches 

Shoulder Heights Front, 

9^—inches 

Across Chest, 

15 inches 

Shoulder Heights Back, 

8^—6 inches 

Neck, 

16^ inches 

Length Back to Waist, 

7\ —15^ inches 


INSTRUCTIONS. 

1. Use Lesson No. I for box. 

2. Shoulder heights and armscye are same as tight fitting vest. 

3. From 5 to 4 is 2 inches, and shape as shown. 

4 to J is ^ of waist measure, 6^ inches. 

J to E is held in with strap. 

Measure from 5 to 9, 6^ inches, ^ of waist, distance from 9—18 must be taken out in 
dart 9—8 2^ inches, and shape dart as shown. 

Collar is the same as described in Lesson No. 4. 


4 - 





THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


41 



Diagram 18. 




















































42 


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


RUSSIAN BLOUSE 

Diagram 19. 


MEASURES. 


Bust, 

38 

inches 

Across Back, 14 

inches 

Waist, 

26 

inches 

Under Arm, 9 

inches 

Hips, 

44 

inches 

Shoulder Heights Front, 9J—7J 

inches 

Across Chest, 

15 

inches 

Shoulder Heights Back, 8J—6 

inches 

Neck, 

164 inches 

Length Back to Waist, 7J—15^ 

inches 


INSTRUCTIONS. 

1. For box and shoulder heights follow instructions as in Jacket Lessons Nos. 1-and 2. 

This blouse is tight back and loose front. 

2. E to J is 1 inch; connect J with A, which gives the back. The back from J to K, and 

gore from L to 4 must he J of waist measure, 26 inches, namely, 6^ inches. As from 
J to 5 is 8f inches, 2\ inches must he lost between K and 2 and 4 and 5, making K and 
L 1J inches, and 4 to 5, 1 inch respectively. 

Now shape, from just given points, back and gore as diagram shows. 18 to 19 is 2\ 
inches; draw line through 19 and Q, giving center front line. Add to this line and 
shape as desired. This blouse illustrates a shawl collar and is described in Corpulent 
Jacket with three gores. {See Diagram 11.) 

Skirt: Draw line 8—9 and square to 6; 6 to 8 is J of bust, 94 inches, and 8 to 9 is -J of 
bust plus 1 inch, or 5! inches. Square point 6 down to line 8—6. 

8 to 7 is 3 inches and draft from 6 through 7 to 9, which represents waist measure. From 
6 to 14 is 4 inches, and 9 to 15 is 4 inches, giving first hip measure to point 15. From 
14 to 11 is £ inch. Draw line straight through from 6 to 11 to 6 inches below waist 
line, or any desired length. This skirt is 6 inches below the waist line all around and 
has a plait added in the back as diagram shows. 

The blouse is gathered in front where zigzag line shows and is held in to skirt to fit 
waist. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


43 



Diagram T9. 




































44 


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


RUSSIAN BLOUSE 


Diagram 20. 


MEASURES. 


Bust, 

38 

inches 

Across Back, 14 

inches 

Waist, 

26 

inches 

Underarm, 9 

inches 

Hips, 

44 

inches 

Shoulder Heights Front, 9J—7J 

inches 

Across Chest, 

15 

inches 

Shoulder Heights Back, 8J—6 

inches 

Neck, 

16J inches 

Length Back to Waist, 7 J—15J 

inches 


INSTRUCTIONS. 

1 

1. Follow Jacket Lessons Nos. 1 and 2, and part of No. 3 for box, shoulder height, back 

and gores. As will readily be seen, everything except the front, is like a regular 
Jacket. 

2. From 7 to W is 6 inches, and from W to U, 3 inches. Shape waist line front from 6 

to U. 

Now measure the hip same as in previous lessons, which gives, in this case, point 17; 
draw straight line down from U to 20. Shape bottom of garment from back, to point 
20 as shown. 

3. From 17 to 18 is 3 inches, and draw center front line through this point to 27 (27 is 

neck measure). From 17 go down 3 to 4 inches for the blouse effect, and shape 
blouse from 7 through 16 and add the desired shape on center front line, as diagram 
shows. The cut-out on lapel and front 27—21 is 1 inch. The V shape on neck curve 
front 9—8 is f inch. 

At bottom of blouse where zig-zag shows, skins must be held in, or when skins are too 
thick cut out in V shape to hold in to give desired effect. The Storm Collar as des¬ 
cribed in Diagram 59 may be used for this blouse. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


45 



Diagram 20. 






























































46 


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


ETON JACKET 


Diagram 21. 


MEASURES. 


Bust, 

38 

inches 

Across Back. 

14 inches 

Waist, 

26 

inches 

Underarm, 

9 inches 

Hips, 

44 

inches 

Shoulder Heights Front, 

9J—7f inches 

Across Chest, 

15 

inches 

Shoulder Heights Back, 

8J—6 inches 

Neck, 

i6i 

inches 

Length Back to Waist, 

7f—15^ inches 


INSTRUCTIONS. 

1. Follow Jacket Lessons Nos. 1 and 2 with the exception of the following: 

2. E to J is 1 inch; J to K is 5 inches; K to L is 2\ inches. 

Find center of K and L and draw guide line up slightly toward front and shape back 
from J to A and K to 28, and front L to 28. 

From front line to 18 is ij inches and draw line through Q from 6 giving center of 
front line. Between 8 and 9 is 2 inches for dart; shape same as shown. Draft bot¬ 
tom of Eton as diagram shows, or any other shape desired. To make Eton double 
breasted add 2 inches to center front line and go hack if inches for button stand. 

3. Notch Collar: To obtain collar and lapel measure 1 inch from deepest point of 

neck line and draw straight line from first button 26 to 24. Go in J inch from shoul¬ 
der point front and draft line from neck curve through just given points. The dis¬ 
tance from line X to 21 is neck curve back A—O. Placing square on line 26—24 
draw line from 21 through 24 to 25. Draft under collar from 25 through 27 to any 
shape desired; shape collar and lapel as diagram shows, allowing 4 inch from point 
21 for spring of collar. The collar is cut through as dotted line shows i4 inches, 
allowing for spring. Now break line 26—24 by turning paper under and trace lines 
of lapel to front, giving shape as shown. Now place a separate piece of paper under 
collar and trace out according to drawing. 




Diagram 21. 








































48 


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


BOX COAT WITH FRENCH SEAMS 

Diagram 22. 


MEASURES. 


Bust, 

38 

inches 

Across Back, 

14 inches 

Waist, 

26 

inches 

Underarm, 

9 inches 

Hips, 

44 

inches 

Shoulder Heights Front, 

9 i —inches 

Across Chest, 

15 

inches 

Shoulder Heights Back, 

—6 inches 

Neck, 

i6£ inches 

Length Back to Waist, 

—15^ inches 


INSTRUCTIONS. 

1. Follow instructions in Lessons Nos. 1 and 2. 

2. E to J is f inch, straight back without seam. J to K is 1^ inches; K to L is 1 inch. All 

other proportions are the same as in previous lessons with exception of dart and back, 
which is cut through to shoulder as diagram shows. 

3. Any desired length may be made as fashion dictates. 

4. Collar is described in Lesson No. 4. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



Diagram 22. 



























































50 


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


LOOSE BOX COAT 


Diagram 23. 

MEASURES. 


Bust, 

38 inches 

Across Back, 

14 

inches 

Waist, 

26 inches 

Underarm, 

9 

inches 

Hips, 

44 inches 

Shoulder Heights Front, 

9 i— 7 i 

inches 

Across Chest, 

15 inches 

Shoulder Heights Back, 

8 i —6 

inches 

Neck, 

16^ inches 

Length Back to Waist, 

7 i—i 5 i 

inches 


INSTRUCTIONS. 


1. Follow Lessons Nos. 1 and 2. 

2. F to 31 is 1 inch; connect 31 with A, straight up and down. 

3. The back and gore must be equally wide, | inch is taken out between K—L and f inch 

between 6—7. The amount lost between gores is i-|- inches; the remainder, between 
E and 7, is to be divided into back and gore. This rule applies to all sizes. 

4. Between 6 and 7 and L—K draw straight line down, and allow between V—10 and 14— 

13, 1 inch, and shape back and gore as shown. 

5. Front of jacket is the same as described in Lesson No. 4. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


51 


25 



Diagram 23. 




















































53 


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


THREE-QUARTER BOX COAT 

Diagram 24. 


MEASURES. 


Bust, 

38 inches 

Across Back, 

14 inches 

Waist, 

26 inches 

Underarm, 

9 inches 

Hips, 

44 inches 

Shoulder Heights Front, 

9^—inches 

Across Chest, 

15 inches 

Shoulder Heights Back, 

8}—6 inches 

Neck, 

16^ inches 

Length Back to Waist, 

—15^ inches 


INSTRUCTIONS. 

t. Follow instructions of Loose Box Coat with the following changes: 

2. Waist: E to J is | inch; J to K is 4 inches; K to L is f inch; L to 6 is 4 inches; 6 to 7 
is I inch. 

B to 31 is | inch; connect 31—J—C and A. All other points are the same as Loose 
Box Coat. 

Collar same as described for jacket, in Lesson No. 4. 




THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


53 



Diagram 24. 











































54 


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


MONTE CARLO 

Diagram 25. 


MEASURES. 


Bust, 

38 

inches 

Across Back, 

14 

inches 

W aist, 

26 

inches 

Underarm, 

9 

inches 

Hips, 

44 

inches 

Shoulder Heights Front, 

9 i— 7 i 

inches 

Across Chest, 

15 

inches 

Shoulder Heights Back, 

00 

1 

C'' 

inches 

Neck, 

16i 

inches 

Length Back to Waist, 

7 \— i 5 i 

inches 


INSTRUCTIONS. 

1. For description of box, shoulder heights and front use Lessons Nos. 1 and 2. 

2. From F to J is 1^ inches; connect J with A, which is back line. 

Draw a straight line down from point 28 and make distance from L to K 1^ inches. A 
line drawn through these points to 28 gives underarm seam. 

Collar: This collar is a large sailor collar, and is produced as follows: place shoulder 
seam of back on front shoulder and mark neck curve as shown, and 5 inches of back 
line T—W. Square point M on lineW—T, and shape front of collar to any desired 
shape. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


55 



Diagram 25. 

































56 


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


RAGLAN, THREE-QUARTER BOX COAT 


Diagram 26. 


MEASURES. 


Bust, 

38 

inches 

Across Back, 

14 

inches 

Waist, 

26 

inches 

Underarm, 

9 

inches 

Hips, 

44 

inches 

Shoulder Heights Front, 

9 t— 7 \ 

inches 

Across Chest, 

15 

inches 

Shoulder Heights Back, 

8i—6 

inches 

Neck, 

16* 

inches 

Length Back to Waist, 

y\ —15^ inches 


INSTRUCTIONS. 

1. The instructions are the same as the f Box Coat and can be made with any desired col¬ 

lar. 

2. To obtain the Raglan armscye, connect O with point T as guide line shows, and from 

line X to H do the same. Point 17 is i-J- inches from 16, and point 22 is 1 inch from 
19. Now connect shoulder points with armscye through just given points. 

Sleeve Diagram on page 59. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


57 


25 



Diagram 26. 










































58 


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


SLEEVE FOR RAGLAN 

Diagram 27. 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

1. The points in this diagram are the same as described on sleeve in Diagram 10, with the 

exception of armscye. 

2. Point F is center of points M—S. 

N is 1 inch from F. 

N to O is inches, length of shoulder plus 1 inch, in all cases the same. 

Draw guide line from I to O and P to O and shape armscye as shown in diagram. 



® CO 


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


59 



Diagram 27. 















GO 


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


ULSTER No. i 

Diagram 28. 


MEASURES. 


Bust, 

38 inches 

Across Back, 

14 

inches 

Waist, 

26 inches 

Underarm, 

9 

inches 

Hips, 

44 inches 

Shoulder Heights Front, 

9 i— 7 i 

inches 

Across Chest, 

15 inches 

Shoulder Heights Back, 

8i—6 

inches 

Neck, 

i6| inches 

Length Back to Waist, 

7 i— i 5 i 

inches 


INSTRUCTIONS. 

1. This draft is made by cutting out any jacket, tight or loose fitting, to the second hip. 

Then draw box, with the exception of shoulder heights, as Lesson No. 1 explains; 
after notching the pattern at bust line, place notches on bust line of box and straight 
on line A—B as diagram shows; let point N be 6 inches below waist line and continue 
gores down straight to points S—W. Continue front line down straight to point V. 
Also note point X, which is 6, inches below waist line. 

2. To get sweep at bottom of ulster, multiply bust measure 19 inches 2\ times, giving 42^ 

inches and measure this from V to S, W to B, and whatever is missing to make 42 
inches measure ^ of remainder from W to T and § from S to C and shape straight up 
to gores as diagram shows. 


iMco 




THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


61 



Diagram 28. 

















62 


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


ULSTER No. 2 

Diagram 29. 
MEASURES. 


Bust, 

38 

inches 

Across Back, 14 inches 

Waist, 

26 

inches 

Underarm, 9 inches 

Hips, 

44 

inches 

Shoulder Heights Front, 9^—inches 

Across Chest, 

15 

inches 

Shoulder Heights Back, 8^—6 inches 

Neck, 

i6£ 

inches 

Length Back to Waist, —15^ inches 


INSTRUCTIONS. 

1. The two gores in this draft are placed together, leaving back and front alone. Follow 

the same instructions as on Ulster No. 1, and note point N to be 6 inches below waist 
line. 

2. Figure the sweep the same as Ulster No. 1, being careful always to let § of remainder of 

sweep go toward back and toward front. Diagram shows same. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


63 



Diagram 29. 
















64 


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


PRINCESS DRESS 

Diagram 30. 


MEASURES. 


Bust, 

38 

inches 

Across Back, 

13 inches 

Waist, 

26 

inches 

Underarm, 

9 inches 

Hips, 

44 

inches 

Shoulder Heights Front, g \—inches 

Across Chest, 

15 

inches 

Shoulder Heights Back, 8 j—6 inches 

Neck, 

i6£ inches 

Length Back to Waist, y\ —15^ inches 


INSTRUCTIONS. 

1. The draft is already explained in the preceding lesson, with the exception that back and 
back gore are separate. A garment of this kind is always cut with a large flare and a 
train, but diagram only shows little flare. Use the same rules in getting sweep as 
Ulster No. 1. 




THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



Diagram 30. 




















THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


()(i 


ULSTER WITH SEPARATE SKIRT 

Diagram 31. 

MEASURES. 


Bust, 

38 

inches 

Across Back, 

14 

inches 

Waist, 

26 

inches 

Underarm, 

9 

inches 

Hips, 

44 

inches 

Shoulder Heights Front, 

9 \— 7 \ 

inches 

Across Chest, 

15 

inches 

Shoulder Heights Back, 

00 

1 

On 

inches 

Neck, 

16^ inches 

Length Back to Waist, 

7 i—i 5 i 

inches 


INSTRUCTIONS. 

1. Draft the same as tight fitting jacket to first hip, except back, which is straight down to 

full lengh of garment, 58 inches, to point 49. The back of this garment is always 
open and has a plait as shown. 

2. Cut jacket through between waist and hip as shown 15—13 or any other shape desired. 

3. Skirt: Draw first and second hip lines, a continuation of box as shown. 35 to 41 is 

hip measure less back, distance 54—V. 36 to 41 is same measure as 15—54. From 36 
to 35 is waist curve same as 15 to 13. At fullest part of hip take out a dart in V shape 
2 inches 31—32 and make same about 4\ inches deep, which seam is covered with a 
pocket, as diagram shows. 

4. From 35 to 47 is a straight line coming slightly out at bottom. The sweep at bottom 

is 2\ times bust measure, making same 42! inches. Measure 42I inches from 49 to 
46; 47 to 50 which is the point given by measure. Connect 36 with 50 and add plait 
as shown 36—34 and 50—48. 36 to 50 is the length 15 to 46 and after obtaining 

this point, shape sweep from 50 to 47 as diagram shows. 

5. Collar: Turn down collar. The rules are same as notch collars, with the exception 

of shape, which follows as diagram, 




THE AMERICAN CARMENT CUTTER 


67 


26 



Diagram 31. 













































C>8 


THE. AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


HOW DOLMAN MEASUREMENTS ARE TAKEN 

Diagram 32. 

MEASURES. 

First Dolman: Take measure over arms, over fullest part of bust, as drawing shows, 1—2. 
Second Dolman: Take measure from center of back, 2 inches above waist to elbow of lady 
standing in an easy pose, 3—4. 

Inside elbow to wrist: Take measure from elbow to wrist, 6—5. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


69 




Diagram 32 


















70 


THP AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


OPERA CLOAK 


Diagram 33. 
MEASURES. 


Bust, 

38 inches 

Across Back, 

14 

inches 

Waist, 

26 inches 

Underarm, 

9 

inches 

Hips, 

44 inches 

Shoulder Heights Front, 

9 i— 7 i 

inches 

Across Chest, 

15 inches 

Shoulder Heights Back, 

8 i —6 

inches 

Neck, 

ib^ inches 

Length Back to Waist, 

7 i—1 5 i 

inches 

1st and 2d Dolman, 

46—io£ inches 

Inside Elbow to Wrist, 

7 i 

inches 


INSTRUCTIONS. 

1. Draw line A—B. C is first Dolman (measure overarm at bust.) 

C to A is y\ inches, length in back; E is waist; A to E is 15^ inches; F and B, first and 
second hip measure, 4 inches. 

2. Square line C—E—F—B on line A—B. 

C —D is 23 inches first Dolman; D to Q is ^ inch allowance for breathing. Divide 19 
inches, \ of bust measure, into quarters, which is 4f inches, and measure off from D 
to G. 

From G to H measure off £ of 19 inches plus 1^ inches; namely, 3^ inches. 

From C to I is 6^ inches across back measure. Find center of 1 and H, which is point 
7. Draw line up on 7 to T, which is \ of ^ bust measure plus 1 inch; namely, 5^ 
inches. Draw lines on H and D up and down, and up on I and G. 

3. E to J is 1 inch. Draw line from J through C to M; M to C is 7 inches, length in back. 

C to P is 5 1 inches, second shoulder height back, and square off on line M—J. 
Measure from M to N 2\ inches. 

From P to R is 6^ inches, width of back; Y to O is 8 inches, second shoulder height in 
back; R to I is 5! inches, first shoulder height in back. 

From H to 3 is 7 inches, first shoulder height in front. 

G to X is 9 inches, second shoulder height in front. 

X to 1 is 2 inches. This varies according to size, more for larger, less for smaller sizes. 
Square point 1 to point 27 and intersect line at 3. 

Point W is 1 inch above bust line and 2 inches from line I; from line H is the same as 
point 4. Now connect M—O—R—W and W—T—4 to line 3. 

X to line 3 is same distance as O to R. Draft neck curve front X—27. 

4. Hip measure is 21^ inches; half of 21^ is iof inches; measure this from 17 to 18. 

Now draft front line 27—Q—18 to 47, which is length of garment. This is a perfectly 

straight line. 

In order to get length of garment in back, measure from M to 49, 58 inches, and square 
on line A—B as diagram shows. 

5. In order to get the minimum fullness of garment at bottom multiply bust measure, 

19 inches, by 2\, which gives 42^ inches; measure this from 47 to 48. 

Now draft a nicely shaped line from J to 48 as shown. 

Sweep at bottom 48 to 47 is slightly curved. This completes garment. 




HE AMERICAN CARM ENT CUTTER 


n 



Diagram 33. 


































i 


n THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


ULSTER WITH DOLMAN SLEEVE 

Diagram 34. 

MEASURES. 


Bust, 

38 

inches 

Across Back, 


14 

inches 

Waist, 

26 

inches 

Underarm, 


9 

inches 

Hips, 

44 

inches 

Shoulder Heights Front, 

9 t- 

~ 7 i 

inches 

Across Chest, 

15 

inches 

Shoulder Heights Back, 

ST 

-6 

inches 

Neck, 

16J 

inches 

Neck Height to Waist, 

7 i~ 

-i 5 i 

inches 

Length Waist in Front, 

00 

HH 

1 

00 

inches 

1 st and 2d Dolman, 

46-10*2 

inches 


Inside Elbow to Wrist, inches 


INSTRUCTIONS. 

1. Use same construction lines as on Opera Cloak on previous page. 

Follow instructions of Jacket Lesson No. 4 for back, with the exception from J to K, 
which is 2 inches, and draw line up from K to S. This is called Dolman back. 

A to 49 is 58 inches, full length of garment. For plaits in back follow our diagram. 

2. The first Dolman is 23 inches; use this measure to get point Z, by placing your measure 

at D and measure to Z, less 7 inches across back measure. Find center of H—Z, 
namely 7, and go up to T, which is -J of bust, plus 1 inch, 5! inches. Z to 2 is same 
distance as W—I. 

3. 4 is 1^ inches above bust line and 1^ inches from line H. The shoulder height and neck 

front are same as in Lesson No. 4. Front line is same as Opera Cloak lesson. 

4. Second Dolman is always 2 inches above waist line point 26. Second Dolman measure 

is io 4 inches; 26 to 6 is 10J inches, less back 19—16. Now connect 6—2—T—4 and 
to line 3. 

5. From 6 draw line to 48, which is 2J times 19 inches bust measure, less back. Follow 

diagram for plaits on this line, same as on back. 

Sweep same as in previous lesson, Ulster No. 1. 




THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



Diagram 34. 






















































THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


FICHU No. 3 

Diagram 35. 


MEASURES. 


Bust, 

38 inches 

Across Back, 

14 

inches 

Waist, 

26 inches 

Underarm, 

9 

inches 

Hips, 

44 inches 

Shoulder Heights Front, 

9 i— 7 \ 

inches 

Across Chest, 

15 inches 

Shoulder Heights Back, 

^ p 

1 

CO 

inches 

Neck, 

i6£ inches 

Neck Height to Waist, 

7 i—i 5 i 

inches 

Length Waist in 

Front, 8—18 inches 

1 st and 2d Dolman, 

46—IO| 

inches 


Inside Elbow to Wrist, 

inches 




INSTRUCTIONS. 

1. Follow instructions as on Opera Cloak Lesson No. I, with exception of following 

points: 

2. A to C is straight; E to J is f inch, and shape back as shown. 

2 to Z is 3 inches, and shape bottom of Fichu as shown from F through Z to L on front 
line, or any desired shape. 




THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


75 



Diagram 35. 


































THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


?(5 


FUCHU No. 4 


Diagram 36. 


MEASURES 


Bust, 

Waist, 

Hips, 

Across Chest, 
Neck, 


38 inches 
26 inches 
44 inches 
15 inches 
16^ inches 


Length Waist in Front, 8—18 inches 

Inside Elbow to Wrist, 


Across Back, 14 inches 

Underarm, 9 inches 

Shoulder Heights Front, 9^—inches 
Shoulder Heights Back, 8^—6 inches 
Neck Height to Waist, —15^ inches 
1st and 2d Dolman, 46—10^ inches 

inches 


INSTRUCTIONS. 

1. Follow instructions of Dolman No. 2. 

2. For plaits follow our diagram closely. 

3. Curve from E to Z, which is 3 inches above waist line, same as Fichu No. 3,with the dif¬ 

ference of shape in front. 




THE 


AMERICAN 


GARMENT 


CUTTER 


77 










































78 


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


DOLMAN No. 5 


Diagram 37. 




MEASURES 



Bust, 

38 

inches 

Across Back, 

14 

inches 

Waist, 

26 

inches 

Underarm, 

9 

inches 

Hips, 

44 

inches 

Shoulder Heights Front, 

9 4 —7 i 

inches 

Across Chest, 

15 

inches 

Shoulder Heights Back, 

81—6 

inches 

Neck, 

i6i 

inches 

Neck Height to Waist, 

7 i~ i 5 i 

inches 

Length Waist in Front, 

8—18 

inches 

1 st and 2d Dolman, 

46—10J 

inches 


Inside Elbow to Wrist, inches 


INSTRUCTIONS. 

1. Follow instructions of Dolman No. 2 for construction lines back and front. Measure 

hip the same to obtain 18. 

Now measure D to H on bust line, which in this case is 8f| inches; deduct this from Dol¬ 
man 23 inches, and measure balance, 14! inches, from C to Z on bust line. Divide 
Z and I into half for point 7 and go up to T 5! inches, which is | of bust plus 1 inch; 
go down from 7 to 26 to 2 inches above waist line, giving second Dolman point. 

2. Draw second Dolman line from 26 to 16. Measure 16—19 width of back 2 inches; ioi 

inches, second Dolman, minus 2 inches leaves 87 inches, which is measured from 26 
to point 6. From H to 4 is a loss of 1 inch; this inch is made up by going from Z to 
35 toward front. 

Inside sleeve from elbow to wrist is 7^ inches; this is measured from 36 to U, the same 
from 2 to V. U to L is a straight line down; L to 13 is 1 inch. Now connect line 
U—13 and 15. From U to 15 is 16 inches, length of sleeve. 

Now draft curve starting at 6 to W through T—35 and U. From 6 to S is a slight 
curve backwards. Connect S with 15 as shown. 

Now connect V with 47 as shown, and V—4 up to shoulder front. 




THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


70 



Diagram 37. 












































80 


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


DOLMAN No. 6 

Diagram 38. 

MEASURES 


Bust, 

38 inches 

Across Back, 


inches 

Waist, 

26 inches 

Underarm, 

9 

inches 

Hips, 

44 inches 

Shoulder Heights Front, 

9 ? — 7 i 

inches 

Across Chest, 

15 inches 

Shoulder Heights Back, 

8^—6 

inches 

Neck, 

i6/| inches 

Neck Height to Waist, 

7 i — I 5 i 

inches 

Length Waist in Front, 

8—18 inches 

1st and 2d Dolman, 

46—10$ 

inches 


Inside Elbow to Wrist, inches 


INSTRUCTIONS. 

1. Follow instructions of Dolman No. 5 and note the change of back. E to J is 1 inch. 

Point W is inches from line R—I and bust line. 

2. From 35 to 11 is \ inch; now draw line 11—30 to 13; 30 is 10 inches from V. 17 to V 

is 2\ inches. Now connect points 3—4—V—16—10—47, as diagram shows. 

3. Place separate piece of paper under sleeve and trace 13—30—11 to U. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


81 



Diagram 38. 






















THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


82 


DOLMAN No. 7 

Diagram 39. 


MEASURES 


Bust, 

38 

inches 

Across Back, 

H 

inches 

Waist, 

26 

inches 

Underarm, 

9 

inches 

Hips, 

44 

inches 

Shoulder Heights Front, 

9 i— 7 \ 

inches 

Across Chest, 

15 

inches 

Shoulder Heights Back, 

8i—6 

inches 

Neck. 

16* 

inches 

Neck Height to Waist, 

7 i—15^ 

inches 

Length Waist in 

Front, 8—18 

inches 

1st and 2d Dolman, 

46—io 4 

inches 


Inside Elbow 

to Wrist. 

7^ inches 




INSTRUCTIONS. 

1. Follow instructions of Dolman Lesson No. 5 for back and front, with exception of fol¬ 

lowing: 

2. 35 to 11 is ^ of an inch. Point 41 is half way between waist and hip line. For under 

sleeve connect line 41 and 11. The V shapes are 1 inch between 21—40 and 34—22, 
and are 5 inches deep to points 30—29. 

Now break hip line 13—10 and turn under, and trace 10 to 41—22 to 30—34—40—29 
—21—11—U—13. 

18 to V is hip measure less back, namely, 21^ inches. 

V to 15 is 2 inches. Now connect 3—4—15 and 15 with 39. Take out 2 darts in V 
shape, one inch between 42—37 and 28—23, making them 5 inches deep to points 
38—25. Now shape line 39—47 as diagram shows. 




THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


83 



Diagram 39. 













































DOLMAN No. 8 


Diagram 40. 


MEASURES 


Bust, 

38 

inches 

Across Back, 

14 

inches 

Waist, 

26 

inches 

Underarm, 

9 

inches 

Hips, 

44 

inches 

Shoulder Height Front, 

9 i — 7 i 

inches 

Across Chest, 

15 

inches 

Shoulder Height Back, 

8 i —6 

inches 

Neck, 

16^ 

inches 

Neck Height to Waist, 

7!—15^ inches 

Length Waist in Front, 

8—18 

inches 

1st and 2d Dolman, 

46-10-g 

inches 


Inside Elbow to Wrist, 7^ inches 


INSTRUCTIONS. 

Follow instructions of Dolman No. 7 for back with the following exceptions: 

8 to 45 is 2 inches. 45 to 41 is 1 inch. Connect 45 with 11 and take out two Vs. same 
as Dolman No. 7. 

L to 13 is 1 inch, and connect with 23, which is center between waist and hip. Now 
break line 13—23 and follow same rules as Dolman No. 7. 

D to 43 is bust measure less W—C. width of back, plus 1 inch; namely, 15^ inches. 43 
to 46 is 2 inches down, same as 8 to 45 in back. Connect 46 with 31, going slightly 
out. From 25 to 24 is 1^ inches, and 2—39 is also il inches. Divide 25—24 into 
half and square down; and 2—39 and square up and down. 

Now shape gore from 52 to 24—46—9 to 39—51 and front 37 to 2—9—4—3. Shape 
bottom 37 to 47, following diagram closely. 




THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


85 


x 



Diagram 40. 
























































































86 


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


CAPE WITH ONE DART 


(38 inch Bust.) 

Diagram 41. 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

1. Draw line A—B and square to D. 

Take jacket pattern, front and back, and place same in square as shown with dotted 
lines. 

Let C be 8 inches and H 8£ inches from A, E to F is 1^ inches at waist, which leaves a 
space of 1 inch between M and N and f inch between L and O. 

L—M—K gives dart on shoulder. 

Use A as a pivot and sweep to any desired length. 



<g) ’1 


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


87 



Diagram 41. 











88 


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


CAPE WITH TWO DARTS 


(38 inch Bust.) 

Diagram 42. 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

1. Use same rule as for previous cape and-find center of N and M; namely, R, and con¬ 

nect with a guide line to A. 

2. T and S are inches from R. 

P and L is f inch from Y. Square Y on line A—R. Do same with point R. For 
darts connect O—T—L—P— 1 < to 27. Use A as a pivot and sweep to any desired 
length. 




Diagram 42. 
















90 


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


CAPE WITH THREE DARTS 

(38 inch Bust.) 

Diagram 43. 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

1. Draw line A—C and square to 0 . 

2. A to E is 3^ inches; A to L is 4^ inches; A to J is 6 inches; A to V is 8 inches; A to H 

is 8f inches; A to N is iof inches; A to U is nf inches; A to W is 13^ inches. 
Square all these points down. 

3. W to T is 7^ inches; N to M is inches and B is 10 inches. H to X is 4$ inches; V 

to F is 5 inches; J to K is inches; L to G is inches; E to Y is 8 inches; A to D 

is 8£ inches and to 2, 12 inches. Square 2 to O, 5^ inches. 

4. Now connect D with Y, G with K, F with X and M with U, forming neck. Now 

measure neck from U to where neck measure comes to. In this case. D is the point. 

5. Now form darts by drawing straight lines from Y to O to G, K to B to F, X to T to M. 

6. To get length of garment measure down from D to C, and U to Q and curve bottom, 

making this side of cape 2 inches longer than front and back. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



Diagram 43. 























92 


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


THREE-PIECE SHOULDER CAPE WITH COLLAR IN ONE 

(38 inch Bust.) 

Diagram 44. 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

1. Draw line A—B. From A to D is height of collar 6 inches; D to C is 6 inches always 

giving Dolman point. From D to B is length of cape. 18 inches. Square points A, 
D, C and B. 

From C to 15 is 23 inches Dolman measure. From D to 10 is O inches; from 3 to Q 
on front is 1 inch; this is a stationary rule. 

The distance between O and 10 in this instance is 20^ inches. Neck should be 8^ 
inches or 17 inches all around. Deduct 8.} inches from 20^ inches, leaving 12 
inches. This divide into half, which is 6 inches. 

As this is a three-piece collar, divide neck measure 8| inches into three equal parts 
which are 2§ incites. Now commence to measure from 10 to 20, 2§ inches; 20 to X, 
6 inches; X to N, 2ft inches: N to J, 6 inches; 21 to 0 , 2§ inches. Divide the just 
given points into half and square up and down as shown. 

On top of collar allow from 2 to I and K to 24. K to 4 and M to O, 2\ inches. Draw 
guide lines from 10 to A; 20 to O; X to 4; N to 24; 21 to 1. 

On guide line 10—-A draft collar back ^ inch in and out to E as diagram shows. 

2. Now collect all points as shown in diagram, and go out from 15 to 16 on front 1 inch 

slightly down to bottom of cape. This completes shoulder cape. 





THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


03 



Diagram 44. 








































94 


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


FOUR-PIECE SHOULDER CAPE AND COLLAR IN ONE 

(38 inch Bust.) 

Diagram 45. 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

1. Follow rule for three-piece shoulder cape with the exception of neck divisions. 

2. From 10 to Q is 20^ inches; deduct neck measure 8^ inches, leaving 12 inches; divide 

into three equal parts leaving 4 inches each to be taken out between 20 and Z. Y and 
X. N and 21. 8| is then divided into four parts, namely 2-J inches, to be left in 

between 10 and 20, Z and Y, X and N, 21 and Q. 

Previous lesson is now to be followed and draft lines same as this diagram shows. 


3- 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



Diagram 45. 









































FIVE-PIECE SHOULDER CAPE WITH COLLAR IN ONE 


(38 inch Bust.) 


Diagram 46. 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Follow rule of three-piece shoulder cape with the exception of neck divisions. 

From 10 to Q is 20^ inches; deduct neck measure 85 inches, leaving 12 inches. Divide 
this into four equal parts, namely 3 inches, to be taken out between points 20 and Z, 
Y and X, N and T, R and 21. 8^ inches is then to be divided into five equal parts, 

namely if inches full, to be left in between 10 and 20, Z and Y, X and N, T and R, 
and 21 and Q. 

Previous lessons are now to be followed and draft lines same as diagram shows. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


97 



Diagram 46. 



















































98 


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


NECKPIECE 

(38 inch Bust.) 

Diagram 47. 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

1. Draw iine 1—4 and square to 3. 1 to 4 is 4 inches; 1 to 2 is 4 inches and to 
inches. Square point 2 down. Point 7 and 8 are 1 inch respectively from 5. 
9 is 1 inch from 4. 4 to 6 is 13 inches. Shape neckpiece through just given 

as diagram shows, or any other desired shape. 


3 is 8 
Point 
points 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



Diagram 47 











NECKPIECE FOR MINK 


(38 inch Bust., 

Diagram 48. 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Draw line 1—5 and square 1 to 6, 6^ inches. 

1 to 2 is qf inches; to 3, inches; to 4, 24 inches, and to 5, 46 inches or any desired 
length. Square points 2, 3, 4 and 5 on line 1—5. 2 to 7 is 3^ inches; 3 to 10 is 4, 
and to 9 is 8^ inches. Square point 9 up to 8, 2 \ inches. 4 to 11 is 2 inches. 5 to 
13 is about 8 inches or any desired width. 

Connect 6 with 7, 7 through 10 to n. Connect 8 with 4 and 8,9 to 11. Connect 6 
with bottom of neckpiece and shape bottom as shown. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


101 


6 



Diagram 48. 



















102 


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


YOKE 

(38 inch Bust.) 

Diagram 49. ‘ ; 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

1. Draw line K—J. From K to M is 4 inches; from K to L is 6 inches and K to N is 9 

inches; K to J is 13 inches. Square point K—M—L down. 

2. K to Q is 4^ inches; M to P is 2\ inches; L to O is 3! inches. 

3. Now draft line P—O—N giving neck. 

4. Connect P with Q, which is back, and Q with J. This line is 4 inches all around from 

neck. 

5. Measure neck from P to N and shape front to J as shown. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



103 


Diagram 49. 









104 


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


CIRCULAR CAPE 

(38 inch Bust.) 

Diagram 50. 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Draw line B—A; B to E is 3! inches; B to C is 6f inches and to G is 10 inches. Now 
square lines down from points B, E and C. 

B to H is 4 inches; E to F is 2 inches; C to D is 3^ inches; draft neck from F through 
D to G. 

From F draw a straight line down through H to I any desired length. Draft line I to 
A same distance from neck line all around. 

Measure neck from F to G and shape front to A as shown. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


105 



Diagram 50. 











106 


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


HOOD i 

(38 inch Bust.) 

Diagram 51. 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

1. Draw line E and B. 

E to D and E to F and F to B is always £ of bust measure 9 inches. Square points just 
given, which constitute box. 

2. Place jacket back and front together as dotted line shows, and draft neck curve E to C; 

C to A is front of jacket or cape. Now draft curve B through G to A, as shown; ^ 
inch all around this curve is stitched and cord placed between to give the desired ef¬ 
fect when wearing hood. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


10 ? 


A 



Diagram 51. 













108 


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


HOOD 2 

\ 

4 

(38 inch Bust.) 

Diagram 52. 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

> 

1. Top of this hood is same as No. 1, with exception of F to B being -§ of bust 4^ inches. 

2. From F to P is 4 inches, and from B to I is 5^ inches, increase or decrease these dis¬ 

tances for respective sizes; I to H is 1 inch. Now connect these points with straight 
line, as shown. 

Now draft curve from H through G to A. 


HOOD 3 I 

1 

i 

(38 inch Bust.) 

Diagram 53. 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

1. Follow instructions as No. 2, with exception of following: 

2. B to I is inches, and I to H is 2 inches; draft line B to H to line J, as diagram shows. 


1 

1 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


109 



Diagram 52. 


Diagram 53. 


























110 


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


KNEE LEGGINGS 


Diagram 54. 


MEASURES. 


Knee, 

Calf, 

Ankle, 


7 inches Shoe Length, 

5 inches Full Length, 

Calf Length, 5^ inches 


inches Instep, 


7 inches 
9 inches 
20 inches 


INSTRUCTIONS. 


r. Draw line O—G, which is full length 20 inches. 

O to X is 54 inches, calf length. 

G to F is 2\ inches, and F to D is 2 inches: these measures never vary. 

2. Square points O, X, D, F and G. 

From D to P is ankle measure 5 inches; square line up and down from P, giving points 
M and Z. 

Knee measure is 6| inches from M to A. L to C is calf measure 7 inches. 

From G to B go out f inch and measure from F to E J inch. Shape line from B 
through E—D—C to A. 

3. Instep from B to J is 7 inches. 

From B to I is 9 inches, shoe length. From Z to H is 1 inch. Draft line from B 
through Q—H to I, and I through J—P—L to M. 

4. N is half distance between O and M, which square to Q, giving button line. 

This completes knee leggings. 


SHOE LEGGINGS 


Diagram 55. 


These leggings are the same as knee leggings, except that the length is 8 inches. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


111 



Diagram 55. 


Diagram 54. 


































112 


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


COACHMAN’S FUR CAPE 

Diagram 56. 

MEASURES. 

Bust, 38 inches 1st Dolman, 46 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

1. For box use same rule as our loose front jacket No. 1, only making it to the waist line. 
Draft shoulders, neck curves, at front and back, same as Lesson No. 2. 

From front shoulder, take ^ inch off and allow this on back shoulder, as shown. This 
is to bring shoulder seam right in center of shoulder. From I to T is 4 inches; in¬ 
crease or decrease this distance ^ inch for respective sizes. Now draft line from L 
through S and T and slightly toward front to Iv; this completes back. 

Measure distance T to C, which in this case, is 10 inches, and place this 10 inches on 
front point D and measure Dolman 23 inches, giving point 8. Now draft line from 
V through 2, through 8 and slightly toward back to W. This completes diagram. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


113 



Diagram 56. 






















114 


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


BISHOP SLEEVE 

Diagram 57. 

(36 inch Bust.) 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

1. Draw line A—B. A to C is \\ inches. | of bust measure; C to D is 9 inches, | of bust 

measure; D to B is 9 inches or ^ of bust measure. Square points A, C, D, B on 
line A—B. 

2. A to E is ^ of bust measure, 18 inches. Square E down on line A—E, making points 

F, P and G. 

A to H is 9 inches, half way between A—E. 

H to I is 1 ^ inches and square H up to I. 

D to O is f inch; P to R is f inch; B to N is 2 inches; G to M is 2 inches; K is half way 
between B and G, or 9 inches. K to L is 6 inches; square K down to L. 

3. Draft line by connecting N— 0 —C, C—I—F, F—R—M and M—L—N as shown, fol¬ 

lowing drafted lines on diagram closely. V shapes at bottom of sleeve are taken out. 
enough to allow cuff band to be sewed in with ease. 

Cuff: —1. Draw line 5—6, 11 inches; 7 is one half the distance between 5 and 6, or 5^ 
inches. Square point 7 up to 9, 4^ inches. 7 to 8 is 1 inch. 

2. Connect 5 with 6 through 8. 6 to 10 and 5 to 6 are 3^ inches. 10 and 11 are 1^ inches, 

outside points 6—5, as is readily seen. Connect 11 with 10 as shown. 

Cuff Band: Draw box 11 by 2 inches as shown. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


115 



i. . 


Diagram 57. 





























116 


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


THREE-PIECE STORM COLLAR 

(Neck measure i 6 \ inches.) 

Diagram 58. 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

1. Draw line A—B, 8 inches; A to D is 5^ inches, height of collar, and square lines A to 

B. 

2. Divide line A—B into three parts, making points J and I, which points square up. 

3. From D to K is 1^ inches. From line J to point E—F is £ inch, and from line I to G 

and H is the same, £ inch. 

4. Now shape collar as diagram shows. 

STORM COLLAR 

(Neck measure i6£ inches.) 

Diagram 59. 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

1. Draw line 10—9, which is 8 inches, and square points 5—4 on line 10—9. 

10 to 5 and 9 to 4 is 12 inches; connect 4 with 5. 4 to 8 and 9 to 7 are 2 inches 9 to 3 

and 7 to 6 are 2 inches; 4 to 11 and 8 to 1 are 2 inches. 

Draw guide line from 6 to 10 and shape back of collar on this line going in and cut f 
inch as diagram shows. 

From 6 to 11 shape neck curve as shown, which line must be neck measure. 

All around neck line 6—11 shape top of collar 6 inches and round corner at front of 
collar as shown. 

Take out three darts § inch, as diagram shows, making the dart in front a trifle shorter 
than the other. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


117 



5 2 10 



Diagram 59. 





























118 


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


TURN DOWN COLLAR 

(Neck measure 16^ inches.) 

Diagram 6o. 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

1. Draw line I—W, 8 inches. W to V is inches; i to Z is 2\ inches, height of collar. 

From V to U is 2\ inches. 

2. From U go in § inch. Connect V with I and U with Z and shape as shown in diagram. 

3. Take center line U—Z and measure from Y to X | inch and connect with curve line 

z—x—u. 

Measure from Z to S 3 inches; S—R is i£ inches. 

Shape collar as shown in diagram. 


STANDING COALAR 

(Neck measure i6£ inches.) 

Diagram 61. 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

1. Draw line 19—24 16 inches, and divide into half for point 23 and square point up. 

21 to 23 is 4 inches and square to points 17—15. 

2. 21 to 22 is i£ inches; 24 to 16 is i£ inches; 19 to 18 is i£ inches; 17 to 20 is § inch; 25 to 

15 is | inch. 

Now connect points as shown in diagram. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


119 




Diagram 6i. 


















120 


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


GENTLEMAN’S FUR.LINED OVERCOAT 


Diagram 62. 


MEASURES. 


Breast, 

Waist, 


42 inches Seat, 

34 inches Depth of Scye, 


43 inches 
io£ inches 


1. 

2. 


3 - 


4 - 


This diagram is intended for a 38 inch breast and allowance has been made for fur and 
between lining on above measures. 


INSTRUCTIONS. 


NO SEAMS ALLOWED ON THIS DRAFT. 


Draw line A—B. A to C is \ of breast measure, 10^ inches. A to F is 18 inches, 
waist point. A to E is 23^ inches, hip point. A to B is full length, 48 inches or any 
desired length. Square A—C—F—E and B on line A—B. 

C to D is 21 inches, £ of breast measure. Point 20 is £ of breast measure, 5^ inches. 20 
to G is f inch; 20 to H is £ of breast measure or 2§ inches. To find point L, divide 
H and C into half and make point. L to I is 1^ inches across back measure. Line 
K—M is f inch below breast line. Square points D and H up and down, I and G 
up on line C—D. 

Point D is half way between point C—A and draw guide line to X, which point is where 
lines A and G meet. A to N is £ of breast measure plus § inch, or 3^ inches. N to O is 
§ inch. I to R is £ of breast measure plus inches. R to S is | inch. 

Draft neck back A—O and shoulder back O—S and shape armscye from S touching 
line 1 and down to line K—M through H to 2. 2 is £ inch below line D—X. X to 
2 is the same as back shoulder O—S. 

X to 1 is ^ of breast measure plus 1 inch, 3$ inches, which line gives us neck curve front. 

J from I is 1^ inches and straight down to full length of coat. 4 to 5 is 3^ inches for 
fullness of coat, and varies according to custom. Draw straight line down from J 
through 5 to T and make that line measure the same as J to Q. Add for double 
breasted 3 inches to line D—U and draw line straight up and down. 

Breast pocket is vertical and placed about 1^ inches below breast line, and is 6 inches 
long. Hip pocket is 13 inches below breast line and can be shaped as desired, and is 
about 7 inches wide. 

To obtain sweep at bottom go down from V to W 1 inch and connect T with W, slight¬ 
ly curving bottom. 

Collar: From 1 inch of deepest point of neck 23, draw line up and down to first but¬ 
ton 26. Go in at X f inch, continue neck curve up to 21. 21 is same distance to X 

as neck back A—O. Lay square on line 23—26 and mark from point 21, points 24 
and 25. From 25 draft under collar, and from 19 shape shawl as shown. Break line 
24—26 by turning paper under, and trace shawl out to front of jacket, giving the 
shape as shown. 

Now place a separate piece of paper under collar; trace out according to diagram. 


1. 

2. 


3 - 


4 - 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


25 - 



121 


Diagram 62. 




























122 


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


GENTLEMEN’S COAT SLEEVE 

Diagram 63. 

MEASURES. 

Breast, 42 inches Inside Arm Length, 1 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

* 

1. Draw line S—H. 

From S to Q is | of breast measure, less ^ inch, or 4^ inches. 

Q to H is inside measure 19 inches. / 

T is 9^ inches from Q; square points S— 0 —T—H across on line S—H. 

S to I is \ of breast measure or 10^ inches. 

Square point I down on line S—I. H is | of S—I or inches. 

N is ^ of H—I, or 2f inches. 

Q to G is 2§ inches; connect G with N. 

H to O is 1^ inches. 

T to R is | inch. 

C to U is 1^ inches. 

W is half way between H and B and 1 inch down to V. 

Connect H with E through V. 

F is half way between K and B, finding point E. 

Now draft sleeve through just given points as diagram shows. 


inches 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


123 



Diagram 63. 





















124 


THE 


AMERICAN 


GARMENT 


CUTTER 


INDEX 


Preface . 

Dedication .. 

Measurements . 

Proportional Measurements for Ladies. 

Proportional Widths. 

Proportional Lengths ... 

Directions for Taking Measures. 

Jacket Lesson I. 

Jacket Lesson IT. 

Jacket Lesson III. 

Jacket Lesson IV. 

Jacket in Loose Front and Tight Back. 

Jacket and Storm Collar in One. 

Jacket with Three Gores (For Corpulent Figure). 

Sleeve Diagram Corresponding With 38 Bust. 

Bishop Sleeve Corresponding With 36 Bust Figure 

Tight Fitting Jacket. 

Tight Fitting Jacket With Separate Skirt. 

Loose Front Jacket With Tight Fitting Vest. 

Tight Fitting Vest. 

Loose-Back, Tight-Front Vest . 

Russian Blouse .... 

Russian Blouse . 

Eton Jacket . 

Box Coat With French Seams. 

Loose Box Coat. 

Three-Quarter Coat . 

Monte Carlo . 

Raglan, Three-Quarter Box Coat. 

Sleeve for Raglan . 

Ulster No. 1., 

Ulster No. 2. 

Princess Dress . 

Ulster With Separate Skirt. 

How Dolman Measurements are Taken.. 

Opera Cloak . 

Ulster With Dolman Sleeve. 

Fichu No. 3. 

Fichu No. 4. 

Dolman No. 5.. 

Dolman No. 6.. 

Dolman No. 7.. 

Dolman No. 8.. 

Cape With One Dart. 

Cape With Two Darts. 

Fur Cape With Three Darts. 

Three Piece Shoulder Cape With Collar in One... 
Four Piece Shoulder Cape With Collar in One.... 

Five Piece Shoulder Cape With Collar in One. 

Neckpiece . 

Neckpiece for Mink. 

Yoke . 

Circular Cape. 

Hood No. 1. 

Hood No. 2., 

Knee Leggings and Shoe Leggings. 

Coachman’s Fur Cape .. 

Bishop Sleeve . 

Three Piece Storm Collar. 

Turn Down Collar . 

Standing Collar ..., 

Gentleman’s Fur Lined Overcoat. 

Gentleman’s Coat Sleeve.. 

Index . 


PAGE 

... 3 
... 6 
... 7 
... 9 
... 10 
...11 
...12 
...14 
...16 
...18 
...20 
...22 
...24 
...26 
...28 
...30 
...32 
...34 
... 36 
...38 
...40 
...42 
...44 
...46 
...48 
...50 
...52 
...54 
...56 
...58 
...60 
...62 
...64 
...66 
...68 
...70 
...72 
...74 
...76 
... 78 
...80 
...82 
...84 
...86 
...88 
...90 
...92 
...94 
...96 
...98 
...100 
...102 
...104 
. ..106 
...108 
...110 
...112 
...114 
...116 
...118 
...118 
...120 
... 122 
...124 






































































THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


125 


iflmeriMn Album ot~Pur Novelties! 


Thirteenth Year 


Che One Standard Authority for furriers 


THE DESIGNS ARE ORIGINAL 
: : :THE MODELS AUTHENTIC 
THE DIAGRAMS CORRECT : : : 


An absolutely correct guide to Coming Fashions and Chronicle of Fur Trade News. 
Published nine times a year (monthly, from March to November). 

Subscription $20,00 a Year 

Including large Artistic Season’s Show Card, 22x28, magnificently printed in colors on plate 
paper, and 72 Exquisite Fashion Plates 12x17, together with nine journals replete with Fur 
Trade News, Items, Chats with Leaders in the Trade, etc., all profusely illustrated. 


00 * PUBLISHERS 000 


American Fashion Company 


853 Broadway, New York. 



BRANCHES A T 


CHICAGO 
164” State Street 


BERLIN 

90 Leipziger Strasse 


LONDON 

■41 Cheapside, E. C. 


PARIS 
14 Rue 


1 

RIS 

±J 


























126 


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


Les Parisiennes 

Album de Luxe 
“Genre Tailleur” 


CS parisiennes is the leading Fashion Journal 
\j of the world devoted to the Creation of 
Styles for Ladies’ Tailors. It is the only 
journal of its kind maintaining offices, each with an 
able staff of designers and artists, in Paris, Berlin, 
London and New York. 


Xes parisiennes is a well-edited trade journal 
devoted to the interests of Ladies’ Tailors. It 
gives all the latest news, fashion chat, etc., of inter¬ 
est in the world of Women’s Fashion. 


Published Monthly 
Except December and June. 


Subscription Price 
For One Year (lO numbers) $20.00. 


: : : PUBLISHERS : : : 

American Fashion Company 

853 BROADWAY, NEW YORK 


Branches 



PARIS 

14 Rue Taltbout 


LONDON 

41 Cheapside, E. C. 


CHICAGO 

158-164 Stale Street 


BERLIN 

90 Lelpzlger Strasse 













THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


127 


Cbe 

American 

garment 

Cutter 

Tor 

Women 


^be IRewest, flRost Complete 
ani> Clp=to=£)ate Idoih on 
Cutting anb designing 

Women's Garments. 


C HE “AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER” for Women is 
the most complete as well as the most up-to-date work of 
its kind ever published. It contains everything pertaining 
to the cutting of garments for all sizes and shapes, with illustra¬ 
tions fully explaining the workings of the system, so that anybody 
can see at a glance the simplicity of it. In it you will find not 
only how to cut all styles of garments but also how to make 
them up. It is the result of years of practical experience put on 
paper, and we are sure that in subscribing for it you will find it 
the best investment that you have ever made. 

The diagrams will be of the same practical and superior kind 
as shown in “ Les Parisiennes ” and on which we have received 
many very complimentary letters. 

It teaches how to make up all styles of garments. 

The work is elaborately and substantially' bound in cloth and 
gilt, making a very handsome volume of nearly 200 pages. 

Price $25.00 for Complete Work. 


The American Garment Cutter 

(Women’s Skirts) 

Being the skirt section of the above work, and containing concise and complete instructions for cutting 
and drafting all styles of skirts, such as circular skirts, 5 to 19 different gored skirts, flounce skirts, flare 
skirts, riding habits, divided riding skirts, etc., etc. A most complete manual of the art of skirt cutting. 

Sen d for Illustrated Prospectus with Specimen Pages. Price $10.00 


PUBLISHERS 

American Fashion Company, 

S53 Broadway, New York. 

___ / 





















128 


THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 


AMERI C A N 
G ENTLEMAN 

Is the Leading high^CIass Practical 

Tailors 9 Journal of the World .... 

SUBSCRIPTION $7.50 PER AININUM 

: s s : WHICH INCLUDES : ; : : 

EIGHT LARGE JOURNALS cram full of the best and latest sartorial ideas and news, 
profusely illustrated with fashion designs ; drafts and diagrams of all garment 
illustrated on plates ; Style Chats with the Leaders in the Trade, etc. 

SIX LARGE PANORAMAS of styles, 22x28 inches. 

TWENTY-FOUR TWO-FIGURE PLATES, 123^x18, all exquisitely printed in colors 
on royal plate paper, showing the very latest styles in Men’s Garments. 


The Edition de Luxe 

of the AMERICAN GENTLEMAN is the acme of fashion publications. Magnificently 
embossed and printed in colors on the finest steel plate paper. 

CbC jEMtlOU be lllIC is a production to be proud of. There are 32 of these 
plates issued annually, and they are works of art, suitable for the very highest class 
of tailors. 

Subscription, including tbe IRegular Edition of tbe Hmerican (Bentleman 

with its plates, $15.00 per annum. 


PUBLISHERS 

AMERICAN FASHION COMPANY 

8 5 3 BROADWAY, NEW YORK 

BRANCHES AT 

CHICAGO: 158=164 STATE STREET 

PARIS: 14 Rue Taitbout LONDON: 41 Cheapside, E. C. BERLIN: 90 Leipziger Slrasse 














































